This site is using (plausible.io)[https://plausible.io] a tool which collect traffic anonymously.
plausible is privacy centered analytics tool that is by default complaint with privacy laws.
And it doesn't use cookies at all.
Even though the purpose of Plausible Analytics is to track the usage of a website, this can still be done without collecting any personal data or personally identifiable information (PII), without using cookies and while respecting the privacy of your website visitors.